Important information and Terms of Sale

I work very hard to keep my goats happy and healthy and it is very important that my goats continue to have a good life when they leave Briar Rose. Please read carefully as the following applies to all my goat sales. I may add and change this information as my experience grows so please come back at any time. We are ALWAYS learning !!!  I also want to say that what works for us may not work for you, this information is simply a reference among may available to consider as I found it difficult to find much info about minis when I first started so wanted to share what I've learnt along the way. I embrace diversity :-)

It couldn't be more true; different strokes for different goats so please seek and gain knowledge wherever you can and from as many sources as you can. I am constantly changing ways of doing things when I  learn new skills and techniques and meet new people. I also just want to make note that I am not responsible for your goats, I will always help if I can but their care and welfare is ultimately your responsibility.

Please don't be a stranger, if you need help or just want to have a goatee chat I am here and happy to provide ongoing assistance to the best of my ability, just please keep in mind I also work and have a young family so may not always be able to be contacted immediately. If unsure call you vet or you can seek counsel from members on the MGA committee. Even being a social member of the group will allow you access to so much support and advice, its well worth joining in order to have that wealth of knowledge at your fingertips. 

 

CONDITIONS AND INCLUSIONS OF SALE


Your new  goat will be vaccinated, ear tagged, drenched (if needed) and have its feet trimmed if required before you take it home, all included in the sale price. Kids will also be dis-budded and wethered if needed. If you require further help in the future I have the following services available on site:

- Dis-budding $20 per kid please contact me within the 1st week after birth

- Vaccination $5

- Worming $5

- Castrating free providing buckling is young enough

 

IMPORTANT: Check that you can have a goat with your local council before committing to one. Please note I will not sell goats to residential blocks as it isn't a suitable home for them. I recommend at least a 1/4 acre.

 

***Please get a PIC number (Property Identification Code) for your property as it needs to be provided to me in order to transfer ownership upon collection of your animals and is a legal requirement for 2 animals or more. THEY CANNOT LEAVE MY PROPERTY WITHOUT IT. Registration forms can be downloaded from the Biosecurity SA website. Alternatively, phone the registration team on 8207 7919 or 1800 654 688 (free call) or email PIRSA.picregistrations@sa.gov.au. Current cost at March 2014 was $76 for 2 years and I don't believe its changed much since.

 

If you cannot provide a secure paddock with good fencing, shelter and/or are unable to feed your goat on a regular basis you are not quite ready for your new mini. Please wait until you are completely set up before bringing your goat home as it will save many hours of stress down the road for you and the animal and you will have a much better relationship with your goat if you wait until you are totally prepared. I can provide photos of our fencing or your welcome to come and visit our stud to see what works for us :-) before you go ahead with your new addition.

 

The following prices have been listed as a guide only, there may be exceptions to the rule depending on genetics/quality so please always check with me first.

 

- $300 wethers

Does:

- $400 pet quality does

- $750+ breeding quality does

- $900+ show quality does

Bucks:

- $900+ depending on quality, age and grade

Servicing available to selected outside does:

-$200+ per doe guaranteed pregnancy (not all bucks available)

Does must provide recent CAE & JD clear tests and not have been exposed to risk factors before going in with the buck. Only open to registered Australian Miniature does. 

 

All my goats must go at the very least in pairs, NO SINGLES unless you already have goats for your new addition to bond with. Goats are herd animals and I have observed the more you have in the herd (within reason of course) the more content they are. If you provide good feed, minerals, shelter, company (in the form of other goats) we have found none of our herd feel the need to try and get out of their paddocks bar the very odd exception if there's something super delicious, or if there is an obvious weakness in the fence line.

However, it is imperative that you don't tempt this very well know mischievous characteristic by providing anything less than excellent quality fencing for if they get out they quickly learn to repeat the behaviour. Bottle babies in my experience tend to be the worst escape artists as they are trying to get to you, their herd. Make sure your fences are tight and high 1.2m minimum cause if they learn to jump them you will have great difficulty in getting them to stop. Once these types of behaviours are established they can be extremely hard to break so just start out right and prevent them from occurring. This also goes for goats going under or through a weak spot, stop it immediately or it will start a repeated behaviour pattern that can become almost impossible to stop.

 

Sales are final and deposits will be retained if default on the sale occurs. I will assist in re-homing any of my goats should the need arise as much as I am able. In certain circumstances I may be willing to accept return of the animals although please note they must have all their CAE & JD testing up to date.

 

FEEDING

 

Our herd is provided hay when required and our preference is triticale, medow or oaten hay. They are occasionally supplemented with a mix of chaff/grain two to three times a week depending on the available grass and quality of it, weather conditions and stage of their breeding cycle. Branches and veggies are given as often as we can. They do extremely well on pasture though and rarely get supplemented with additional feeds over the Spring/early Summer months. We don't overstock our property though which allows for good quality browse. Winter and Autumn are much more demanding seasons on the goats and they are given fresh hay everyday. Often in their shed as the won't browse in wet weather. Mineral blocks are always available. 

 

Our grain mix consists of the following (WARNING: bucks and wethers are given grain as a treat only or for show prep and it is fed very sparingly. It can be bad for their health if given too often in the wrong protein % by building up stones in their Urethra which can ultimately be fatal. Roughage in the form of hay, veggies and branches is much safer option for the boys :-)

Our show team is prepared at least 8 weeks prior to events on a daily ration that includes much of the following.

un-pasteurised apple cider vinegar with garlic

- rolled or steamed barley

- cracked maize

- cracked oats

- cracked lupins

- Seaweed meal

- Soybean meal

- Lucerne chaff

- rough cut oaten chaff

- dolomite added at rate of approx. 1 tablespoon per goat

- sulphur

- copper sulphate (very carefully added as too much can be lethal but it is an important additive if your in Copper deficient areas)

- sun flower seeds

- molasses

- Livermol

- Copra

- cod liver oil

 

Amount of feed is increased or decreased to accommodate the number of goats I have and the condition they are in, taking into account the requirements of each season and at what stage of the breeding cycle we are in. My aim is to keep them in good healthy condition but not fat. Bucks and wethers are only given grain as a treat. Daily observation of the herd is vital to adjust their diet promptly to maintain their good health as there will often be one that needs a little boost whilst another may need to be put on a diet. It is imperative to intervene with drenching or treatment of illness promptly before significant weight loss occurs.

 

Goats need more than just grass to stay in really good condition most of the time if your pasture quality isn't tip top. Although here in Spring and Summer time we rarely have to provide additional feed outside their normal paddock grazing.

They require dry scratchy fodder to stimulate their rumen (stomach) and have very specific mineral requirements to stay in the best of health. In the wild they browse and mainly consume trees/shrubs/bark etc as they have a higher mineral concentration than grasses. Their roots go down much deeper in the soil to bring the plants the nutrition they need and in turn the goats will pick and choose what they also require. We provide our stock with a variety of different lick blocks and loose minerals.

Depending on the season and conditions the goats preference to which one they really prefer changes. Please avoid any blocks with Urea added. The basics are:

- 007 ( small red brick horse block)

- Sulphur block (helps to keep lice away)

- Olson's Peak 50 protein block for lactating, pregnant or weaning stock has also been very favoured by my herd

- Local fodder store speciality blend of loose minerals inc seaweed meal, dolomite, copper, calcium, magnesium is my #1 choice and the goats thrive on it!

- Copper algcide blocks are added to their water trough (please make sure you do not add these if you have metal water containers) as their is evidence that it assists with worm control which goats can be very susceptible too, and also assists in better coat condition. They are given the option of plain water also so that they can take what they need. Certainly in our herd we have observed the goats choose the water container with the block in preference to the one we also offer without depending on the season.

- In addition to the above we also have on offer with varying success Bastlec Horse blocks and Pre lamber blocks.

 

At every opportunity please give your goats fresh produce. You can even make a garden specifically catered to your mini goats. The following is an example of just some of the feeds I have had good success with and is by no means limited to:

- Olive branches, pumpkin, rose bush, willow, oak (avoid the acorns which can be toxic), bark, most native trees and shrubs, spinach & silver beet, broccoli, peppercorn branches, salt bush, sunflowers (limit these as they can be very oily but the goats will gorge on them and it makes them shiny), corn stalks, blackberry and raspberry cuttings, wormwood, carrots and dried bread is a favourite treat along with Weetabix (small very special treats only), passion fruit and wisteria vine clippings, banannas, apples, carrots and oranges.

*** remember that sudden changes to diet can upset the stomach so make any changes in small amounts to avoid loose poo or any toxic reaction.

 

Be careful with stone fruit and its leaves (we've fed branches fresh with no problem in the past but not once its wilted) and totally avoid rhodedrendrum, bulbs, avocado, sugar gum and most household garden ornamental if they leak a milky or jelly like sap although there's some exceptions here too. For a full list of poisonous plants please please research on the web it is not worth taking the risk of poisoning. If your not sure if its safe DON'T FEED IT. Stone fruit can cause problems too.

 

BOTTLE BABIES

 

Bottle babies although very cute are a lot of work and require very dedicated human parents so please be sure you are ready for this commitment before your baby arrives if you chose one of these little ones.

I always leave single kids on their very loving mothers but in the case of multiple births will often remove one to bottle feed to give mum a better opportunity to keep herself and her retained kid in the best possible condition. Babies generally stay with mum until they are weaned at approx. 10 -14 weeks of age or if a really boisterous boy as early as 8 weeks. In most circumstances they don't take long to become very loving once settled into their new human homes after thriving on their mothers milk if dam raised. They are quite often much stronger than those raised on a bottle too. If you are certain you would like to raise your own baby though, we can try to match you with a little pair once they have had their colostrum and are nice and strong at around 3 -4 weeks old and well established on a bottle, attaching on their own and starting to eat well on hay and other feeds that kick start their rumens. Please let me know what suits you best and I will endeavour to find the perfect match for your circumstances.

 

My bottle babies will be established on full cream milk powder that can be obtained at your local supermarket and it is mixed at a rate of half a cup of powder to half a litre of warm water. We add Penta-vite infant oral liquid to their bottles every 3rd day as a supplement and have had good success with doing so. Teats will be provided to you as they don't like change.

Initially when they leave the property most of my little ones will be on approx. 250 to 350ml per feed 3 times a day at a ratio of 1/2 cup of powder to 500ml of water. DO NOT OVERFEED YOUR BABY! There is no need to exceed 1 litre a day on these little stomachs, if they are still hungry provide browse to help their little tummies get a good start! Overfeeding with a bottle, and I assure you most kids with tell you they are still hungry after guzzling their bottles, is the quickest way to cause gut problems which can result in scouring or bloat or DEATH. If they are still hungry after their bottle give them some hay, chaff or suitable branches like willow or rose to much on. Another vital point is DON'T CHANGE THE MILK FORMULA as it will cause scouring in most cases and make your baby very sick unless done very gradually. I feed milk warm erring to the cooler side. If you are adamant you want to change the formula, although I don't recommend this - do so very very slowly by adding it to their current mixture and slowly increasing the new feed and decreasing the old. NO SUDDEN CHANGES. Fresh water must be provided at all times.

 

I also recommend you provide a general goat mix heavy in oaten chaff to your growing bub to stimulate the gut with an early weaner kid/lamb pellet added such as Venavite or a small amount of mixed grains added to the chaff. Only put out a small amount and every day provide fresh feed as they dirty it up quickly and old grain can sour fast and make for sick kids if not removed. This must be supplied fresh daily from around 1 week old to help them transition onto solid feed as they slowly begin the transition off their milk. Its vital to provide a good diet to gain strength and grow to their full potential. You must avoid urea if using the calf rearing pellets though!

WARNING Venavite pellets must NOT be ingested by any animal other than those with a rumen stomach. Dogs, alpacas and poultry are a particular concern so please keep the pellets away from them as it can be fatal, horses cannot eat them either so just make sure you read and follow the instructions on the bag.

 

If I encounter a bottle babe with  the runs; if scourban is not available I will make a paste from either feed quality dolomite lime, cornflour or crushed white non toxic chalk and add a little water and drench the kid (approx. 1 dessert spoonful of powder) from a syringe. If this doesn't fix the problem after missing a milk feed I will remove the milk for 24 hours and feed with Vytrate (electrolytes) served warm and mixed to the instructions on the sachet or bottle and then repeat the drench. If their poo doesn’t become more solid by the following day please contact me or seek vet assistance  as babies can go downhill very quickly if they become dehydrated and when babies get stressed which can sometimes occur with change of home/surroundings it can sometimes cause coccidosis which requires prompt antibiotic treatment to successfully treat by a vet. Taking a sample of their poo will quickly ascertain if this is what the baby is facing. Please don't hesitate to contact me if you have any concerns with your baby, I will do my best to help. I have also added small amounts of slippery elm to the bottle with some success but find the chalk works much better but scourban is my first choice if available. Probiotics such as yogurt or the specific pastes for goats can also be helpful.

 

***MOST IMPORTANTLY*** Keep you baby warm dry and above all clean. Dirty or wet housing will quickly deteriorate the health of your kids and can lead to coccidosis and worm burdens. Change bedding regularly and don't feed them directly off the ground, use buckets and be careful that their water supply is also clean and not too deep so they can't drown. Be careful they can't get caught or tangled in anything as they are very inquisitive and like to explore, climb and jump. And never leave babies unattended with dogs. They will need to be kept safe from foxes too until they are at least 8 -12 months old and big enough to defend themselves.

 

WARNING: If babies get sick they can go downhill extremely fast and if they become too dehydrated with diarrhoea you should seek medical attention by a vet ASAP! Coccidosis is a nasty bacteria that is quite prone in young kids under stress and very lethal if not treated quickly. Try not to put your animal under high levels of stress, sometimes transport can be enough to start the imbalance, its just something all goat owners need to be aware of, if your unsure please seek advice.

GUIDE FOR 2 KIDS

The following is just what I feed my bottle babies in general, please increase or decrease amount of milk depending on how many babies you have. Please note that the below volumes are for 2 babies. I leave a minimum of 4 hours between every feed to ensure it is digested properly.

1 – 2 weeks old ~ 4 feeds per day

500ml warm water (first 2 weeks), 1/2 cup of full cream milk powder added split between 2 bottles. Often little ones won't drink a full bottle for me in the first couple of days, and that's ok providing they feed strongly at every feed. They will increase the volume as their tummy grows.

2 - 6 weeks old  ~ 3 feeds per day

600ml-750ml warm water, 3/4 cup of full cream milk powder added split between 2 bottles

6 – 10 weeks old ~ 2 feeds per day

750ml warm water, 3/4 cup of full cream milk powder added split between 2 bottles

10 – 14 weeks old ~ 1 feed per day

750ml warm water, 3/4 cup of full cream milk powder added split between 2 bottles

14 weeks plus no more bottles :-)

NEVER EVER GIVE KIDS WATER FROM A BOTTLE! IT CAN CAUSE BLEEDING INTERNALLY. IF THEY ARE THIRSTY THEY WILL LEARN TO DRINK FROM A BUCKET IF ITS CLEAN AND AVAILABLE.

PRODUCTS WE USE

Our basic medical/care kit contains:

- Thermometer

- hoof trimmers (goats need their feet trimmed every 8-12 weeks)

- electric dis-budder

- aloe vera gel

- Worm drenches currently in use; Caprimec (we try to only worm individual animals as required and get fecals through our local vet to assist with identification of infected stock as we want to limit the resistance of our herd to drenches, rotating paddocks is a vital part of keeping worm burdens low if possible too) Q drench is our quarantine drench

- Vaccination currently in use; Glanvac 6, we choose to vaccinate every 6 months

- Pestene powder for lice control or Cydectin pour on

- Lubricant

- Hospital grade dis infectant

- Baby wipes

- Scourban

- Probiotics

- Revive paste for weak or sick kids

- Opticlox (for pinkeye and for any infection in a cavity such as an infected ear tag)

- Betadine/Iodine

- Cetrigen spray

- Vytrate electolytes either in the individual dry packes or concentrated liquid

- Syringes both for injecting and drenching so we have various sizes

- 22 gauge x 3/4" (0.70 x 19mm) needles

- Palastart Colostro-immune feed supplement

- White non toxi chalk

- Injectable vitamins; VAM, Vitamin C, B Complex, Vitamin B1, B12

- Antibiotics, Bivatop and Anti inflammatries (only administered under vetrinary advice)

- Casturating rings

- Towels

- Tweezers

- Scissors

- Gauze/vet wrap

- Andis clippers for show prep BLADES 3F for thick coats, 10 for udders, feet and teses and 5 for the overall finish